Choosing A Microwave Oven

The microwave oven has become a standard fixture in American kitchens. You probably even have a microwave oven yourself. These appliances can heat water and cook food in much less time than it takes in a standard oven or stove.

The parts of a microwave consist of a cooking chamber, a wave guide, a magnetron which produces the microwaves, and a high voltage transformer which provides electricity for the magnetron and the magnetron control circuit. A microwave produces heat by bombarding food with microwaves, which are a type of electromagnetic wave. Fats, sugars, and water absorb these waves, which causes the molecules to vibrate at a high rate os speed, which produces heat. The microwaves are not absorbed by ceramics, glass, or most plastics. Metal pans reflect microwaves, and thus cannot be used in microwave ovens.

Microwave ovens were first built in 1947 by Raytheon. This oven was called the Radarange, and stood almost 6 feet tall, weighing in at 750 pounds. It consumed 3000 watts of energy, and needed plumbing for it's cooling system. This monster machine came with a monster price tag of around $5000. In 1954, a commercial model of the microwave was developed, that used only 1600 watts. The price tag of $2000-$3000 was still expensive. In 1965, Amana was acquired by Raytheon, and introduced a countertop version of the Radarange in 1967. This was the first popular home microwave oven, at the more affordable price of $495.

Microwave ovens have gone through several changes, and now come in many styles and sizes. Consumers have their choice of a wall mount oven, which is built into the cabinetry, and the tabletop version, which obviously is meant to be placed on a table or countertop. Microwaves allso come in different size options to suit a number of needs.

*Compact Microwaves: These small units generally measure less than 18 inches wide, 12 inches tall, and 14 inches deep. Their capacity is less than one cubic foot. Their power ranges from 500 to 1000 watts. These small units are used mostly for making popcorn, reheating food, and cooking microwave meals. You can typically find them in break rooms or dorm rooms, where they take up very little space. Some larger compact microwaves are also capable of light cooking, and can hold a 2 quart casserole dish.

*Medium Capacity Microwaves: These microwave ovens are generally 20 inches or more wide, with capacities of 1-1.5 cubic feet. The power on these ranges from 1000-1500 watts. These larger microwave ovens also have several auto-cook features built into them, which aren't usually found in the compact microwaves. The medium capacity microwaves cook food slightly faster, and can accommodate larger bowls than the compact microwaves. They can be used for coking frozen entrees, vegetables, and small pieces of meat.

*Large Capacity Microwaves: These microwaves have a large number of auto cook features, and more precise temperature controls. These large microwaves are designed to cook entire meals. With a capacity of over 2 cubic feet, and over 2000 watts of power, these large microwaves are capable of cooking roasts, turkey breasts, and large casserole dishes.

Microwave may also come with additional features, such as browning elements, which produce a brown crust on food as if it were cooked in a conventional oven, or rotisseries.

When choosing a microwave oven, you should keep a few things in mind. What is your budget? Although microwave ovens can be bought for much less than $5000 now, you'll still need to decide how much you want to spend. What do you plan on using the oven for? If you only want to pop an occasional bag of popcorn, or microwave a frozen burrito, you can get by with a compact microwave. If you plan on doing a lot of thawing and cooking, you'll want to look at something bigger.

The microwave oven has gone though many changes since it's first construction in 1947. With it's wide variety of styles, sizes and even colors, they have become a very affordable asset to many people.

Commercial Microwaves - What You Are Missing Out On

The form of microwaves classified as the commercial hybrid is designed to withstand heat and humidity which is a stark contrast to regular microwaves cannot stand up to high temperature and humidity. And no set of people will enjoy commercial types of microwaves better than restaurant operators.

By purchasing this rather special class of microwaves, what you get in turn is a more durable appliance that is also very easy to operate. A lot of work goes into the design and production of commercial microwaves and most of them come with heavy duty power cords, commercial quality relay, as well as overload switches. The advantage of all these components combined is that the risk of power overload and outage is reduced considerably.

However, when buying a commercial type microwaves, you must decide the category you should go for viz a viz the light duty variety or the heavy duty ones. Generally, the scale of your cooking and the room space you have is what will determine your choice, but even if you have a very small space, you will still find the perfect commercial microwave that will fit the space because they come in all sizes.

And speaking of categories, there are as many types of commercial microwaves as consumers want in the market, which can be either on the World Wide Web or in physically located stores. Majority of the household brands have at least a version of the commercial brand, but there are marked differences in areas like physical appearance, size, and electrical power. Among the leading brands of these microwaves are Sharp, Panasonic, Samsung, Amana, Merrychef, and Menumaster.

Commercial kinds of microwaves come in a broad range depending on the size and electrical power output you desire. For instance, if your choice is a light duty and economical microwave, with a power rating of 1000 Watts, you will find a number of it with different brands in the market.

Medium to heavy power rated microwaves are often within the 1200 Watts to 2100 Watts category. These are called heavy duty class and have the capability to stand up to high usage which is a requirement for cooking large volume of foods and items that requires longer cooking time.

Structurally, microwaves (both regular and commercial) are constructed out of stainless steel, but this does not mean you won't find products constructed with other materials if you look around enough. A rather novel feature added to commercial microwaves is a combined microwave and convection oven, which is highly beneficial for folks with limited space or those who cook many varieties of food. Overall, irrespective of your culinary needs, you will always find the right type of commercial microwaves to fill your needs.

History of the Microwave Oven

Microwave ovens are these days present in more homes and commercial premises than not. The simplicity and speed at which they can provide hot food makes them a clear winner in the kitchen of many homes and businesses. But where did it all begin?

The microwave oven of today starts its story with scientist Mr Charles G Smith, who was attempting to start a company building domestic refrigerators with the help of his friends Laurence K Marshall and Vannevar Bush in the early 1920s. After three years of trying to build a commercially viable unit Mr Smith and company were forced to admit defeat. Their designs were too expensive to compete with existing products and they had used up most of their capital.

The team began to question what other uses the parts they had produced could have, in an attempt to turn the failure of their initial project into a potential success. Smith recognised that the pumps they had produced may be converted thermionic valves, which can be used for the processing or creation of electrical signals. Smith concentrated his efforts into producing the valves, and produced a diode which was a marked improvement on types commercially available at the time.

Smith's design allowed radios, which at the time relied on very large, very expensive batteries to run on mains electricity. This revolutionised radio broadcasting, helping bring it to the masses and the success the company craved was now theirs. The unit was named the 'Raytheon Rectifier', and the men renamed their company Raytheon after their famous product.

Research into RADAR in the early to mid 1900s had highlighted the fact it would give a distinct advantage over the enemy in aerial battle. In the 1940s the UK and US combined their efforts to produce among other top-secret projects, a magnetron, a unit which amplifies or generates microwaves, with an external magnetic field controlling the flow of electrons. This magnetron would become a fundamental element of the microwave oven. Percy L Spencer, an exceptional engineer working for Raytheon at the time was able to exhibit enough understanding and skill to be allowed access to the magnetron, and eventually to be awarded a contract to produce them. Percy's improvements resulted in Raytheon taking over 80% of the world's supply on magnetrons by early 1945.

It wasn't until around this time that the Raytheon company produced their first microwave oven, a discovery made quite by accident. Spencer was working on the RADAR magnetron project when he noticed that the chocolate bar in his pocket melted. Experimenting with food and the magnetron Spencer next cooked up popcorn, then an egg, and soon realised the commercial potential of this discovery. By October 1945 the world's first commercial microwave was patented the 'Radarange' and tested in a Boston restaurant. The unit was cumbersome, expensive, and used a lot of electricity, but it worked. One of the first Radarange ovens was placed (and still stands) aboard the NS Savannah, very fitting as the Savannah was the world's first nuclear powered cargo ship.

A domestic model was developed in the 1950s, sales through Raytheon's Amana company were initially slow. Raytheon licensed their microwave oven design to The Tappan Stove Company in the early 1950s, but the large size of the unit and a high price tag continued to keep the oven beyond the reach of the masses. In the 1960s the Litton group made advancements in microwave technology using a new magnetron feed and reconfiguring the oven to counter top size. Suddenly the oven was accessible, and sales soared.

In 1975 microwave ovens outsold gas domestic ovens for the first time, and by 1977 nearly 60% of US households contained one. As technology progressed microwave ovens became smaller, more advanced, and most importantly, cheaper, reportedly now being present in over 90% of US homes.

Home Appliances - Where Would We Be Without Them

Home appliances are the fantastic small items which our life much easier, and more comfortable. Some appliances are things such as dishwashers, clothes washers, dryers, microwaves, and other many others. Many of these things were not available until the last two centuries; and most of the ones we have now were invented within the last 75 years.

Before then life was pretty rough and drab. It took a lot of time to wash clothing, and to even cook; as it took a while for the wood to heat the water; and then rubbing the cloths on a rub board. Cooking was a hard chore as well, and many times ashes from a fireplace would get into the food.

As our science progressed we were kept updated to new and easy to maintain home electronics which were going to make our daily chores much easier; so that we would have some extra free time for ourselves. This is still going on to day. It seems that a year can go by and once the warranty time is up and you need to get your home appliance worked on, all of a sudden your type of appliance is obsolete and out dated.

Home devices have evolved from fireplaces to iron stove tops to electric and gas cooking ranges, then they evolved to cook tops. The company names range from Amana, to Bosch, to Maytag and so many more; the companies keep coming. Now days many companies allow subcontracts to other companies in other parts of the world so that the cost to you will be a huge saving compared to the old appliance that you did have.

In the United Kingdom home appliances are divided into two categories. The first is called brown goods which would include TVs VCRs, cameras, and telephones among other very small appliances. The second type of home instruments are called white goods; which include refrigerators, freezers, cookers, washers, dish washers, trash compactors, microwaves as well as the larger sized home appliances. Brown goods or the smaller appliances usually have soldered wires on a small peace of board like material, which is also known as a motherboard in today's language. Many appliance service repairmen have to be retrained to work on these types of home devices, so there are still many service repairmen which still refuse to work on them. They usually refer the customer back to the manufacturer.

During the first few years of the development of appliance, there were problems which would arise from time to time because the house wiring could not carry the proper amperage and voltage, so you could not run an electric stove and a microwave at the same time, you had to learn how to distribute your electric current. Today, new electrical codes have been passed, and appliance technicians have developed low energy efficient home appliance to control the troubles of the past. Now the newer home appliances can and do actually save you money off of your monthly electric bill.

How to Replace your Broken Oven Element

The oven element in your electric range can burn out at any time. Unfortunately it always seems to happen at the most inopportune times, such as the week before Christmas or Thanksgiving.

Most elements do give warnings before burning out. They will often have a bright spot that will be noticed by the homeowner, just prior to burning out. If your element has a bright spot replace it as soon as possible. Waiting for the element to burn out is inadvisable because the oven thermostat or other electric components can be affected.

In all aspects of this job safety must come first. Use only the manufacturers original parts, not a cheaper substitute. Only attempt this repair when you have enough time, and patience, to do it properly. Remember, you will be dealing with 240 volts - that's twice as much power as flows through your regular household circuits. Only attempt this repair with another adult present.

If you feel confident in your ability to safely replace an oven element then try the following method:

1... Disconnect range from electrical power, either by unplugging or turning off breakers. Pull range away from wall so all sides can be accessed.

2... Remove rear panel of range to expose the element wiring. Identify which element you suspect being burnt out.

3... Carefully remove the element wiring. They are usually screwed on connections. Avoid breaking the connections or stripping the screw head with your screwdriver.

4... Go to the front of the range. Locate the screws securing the element within the oven cavity. This may require a flashlight because they are usually covered in debris. Again use caution not to harm the screw heads. The screws may be very tight and will require patience to remove without harming. If the screws will not turn they will have to be drilled out using a high-speed drill. If this becomes necessary use caution not to chip the oven interior.

5... Remove the oven element. If it's broken avoid touching the pieces with your bare hands. The pieces can be very sharp. Plus, the white powdered insulation contains harmful chemicals.

6... Proceed to a parts store to obtain a replacement. Make certain you have your make, model, and serial number. Manufacturers use a vast variety of elements. Each model, type, configuration, and wattage requirements will determine which element was installed in your range.

7... Install the new element and secure it with the screws. If the holes in the mounting plate don't align you will have to drill holes in the cabinet interior. Carefully drill holes in the cabinet using a high-speed drill. Use caution not to let drill slip to avoid damaging or chipping the interior liner.

8... From the rear of the range reconnect the element wiring. Don't bent the electrical connections or allow the screws to strip the threads. If the wiring is burnt the insulation must be cut back to expose undamaged wire. Cut the insulation back using a knife or wire-stripping tool.

9... With the new element installed plug the range back into the electricity. Start the oven and allow to run for five minutes. Disconnect the electricity and quickly feel the wiring insulation at the element connections. They should feel slightly warm, but not hot. A hot connection indicates a poor connection, or the possible failure of other components associated with the oven. If hot, it will be necessary to remove it and redo. Once satisfied with connections replace the rear panel and reinstall into counter.

10... Test the oven operation. All elements should go off and on as per normal.

11... Final step is to do a test run of the oven temperature. If you have an oven thermometer allow the oven to cycle off three or four times at a regular baking temperature. The thermometer should indicate same temperature at which the oven dial is set. As a confirmation bake something such as muffins or cookies as your test substance.

As the preceding has shown, replacing a burnt element is not a difficult repair. But, it is certainly one that should only be attempted by someone who is confident around electricity. If you are uncertain about your ability around high voltage, telephone an appliance repairperson for help.

An appliance repairperson can have your element replaced, tested, and operating in less than an hour. Less time than it will take you to find the part. Also, they will have all the tools and testers required to do the job quickly and safely.

Positive Aspects of Bottom Freezer Refrigerator

If you are looking for an energy efficient appliance to replace your old refrigerator then the model you should be looking at is the bottom freezer refrigerator. This appliance is designed to conserve energy and to give extra space in the place where you need it-the fridge part. As homeowners we know that when it comes to the refrigerator our freezer is used for storage but little else-meaning of course that it is rarely accessed. The bottom freezer refrigerator is designed to get the freezer out of your way and still provide the optimum amount of space for storing your frozen goods.

The freezer component when located on the bottom is designed as a pullout drawer instead of a door. This means that you don't have to worry about food flying out at your head every time you open it. Also, the drawer design provides a more secure enclosure which will conserve energy and keep your frozen goods at a balanced temperature. This is not only good for your electric bill but also your health.

If the purpose for this new refrigerator is to be more 'green' then there are few things you should keep in mind to keep your refrigerator running at optimum performance. Make sure that in and around your bottom is clear of debris, dirt and dust. Also be sure to clean the coils on the back of the unit. If there is build up in either of these places it will cause your refrigerator to run harder to keep a balanced cool temperature and this will not only eventually burn out your motor but will also use more energy effectively eliminating the 'green' qualities. Another thing to keep in mind is to not overstock your refrigerator. This will also lead to a waste in energy and can burn out your bottom freezer refrigerator.

This refrigerator is perfect for anyone, whether you are single or cooking for a large family. The bottom freezer refrigerator will save you money on your electric bill, it will conserve energy and is better for the environment-making it the perfect 'green' machine. These refrigerators are offered in all name brands including Maytag, Amana, and Samsung. They can also be found in store brand lines which give you a good price range. So no matter what you are looking for and no matter what you can afford, there is definitely a bottom freezer refrigerator for you.

Portable Air Conditioning Units Beyond Window Units

Portable air conditioning units aren't quite portable enough to carry around like a lunchbox, but they are on wheels and are small enough to easily push from room to room or office to office.

Today's portable air conditioning units generally have 1,800 to 18,000 Watts output, and some of them also have electric resistance heaters built in for winter.

There are two basic types of portable air conditioners: evaporative and refrigerative. Evaporative portable air conditioning units are also known as "swamp coolers," which is somewhat of a misnomer since they work best where relative humidity is low. These units have neither a compressor nor a condensor. Liquid water is evaporated on cooling fins, releasing vapor. The evaporating water absorbs latent heat of vaporization, cooling the air. It's similar to how sweating cools humans.

But unless the humidity is low, the amount of cooling a swamp cooler can accomplish is limited, and the air that is cooled will be extremely humid. The big advantages of these portable air conditioning units are that there's no need for hoses to vent outside the cooled area, they're inexpensive, and they use much less energy than other portable air conditioning units.

When it comes to refrigerative portable air conditioners, there are two sub-types: "split" units, and those with hoses. Both sub-types have compressors and use air to exchange heat just like any other household air conditioner. These systems dehumidify and cool the air. They collect water that condenses out from the cooled air, and they produce hot air that has to be vented somewhere outside the cooled air. The evaporation / cooling cycle of an air conditioner works as follows:

Freon gas is compressed in the compressor unit, causing it to heat up and increase in pressure.

The hot freon gas runs through a series of coils to dissipate the heat, and condenses into a liquid.

The liquid Freon passes through an expansion valve. When this happens, it evaporates, becoming low-pressure, cold Freon gas.

The cold Freon gas goes through another set of coils, allowing the gas to absorb heat, cooling down the room being air conditioned.

With hose type portable air conditioning units, there are a further two subtypes: monoblock, and air-to-air.

Monoblock portable air conditioning units collect the condensed water in a tray and automatically stops when the tray is full. Air-to-air units, on the other hand, re-evaporate the water, re-evaporate the condensed water, discharging it through a ducted hose. These can run continuously.

Though ductless split systems (often referred to as "mini-splits") are fairly new to North America, they can be used in many residential and even commercial applications. They are often chosen as retrofits for older houses or for use in houses or rooms where installing or extending ductwork is not practical. Commercially, mini-split portable air conditioning units are used in schools, and as supplemental cooling in restaurant kitchens and offices.

Like central air conditioners, mini-split portable air conditioning units have a compressor and an air handling unit that contains a fan and an evaporator. The compressor and condenser are housed together and go outdoors. The fan and evaporator unit stays indoors in the area that's to be cooled. Between the two runs a conduit containing refrigerant tubing, power cabling, suction tubing, and a condensate drain.

The main advantages of ductless mini-split portable air conditioning units is that they're easy to install, quiet, and usually don't run up against zoning difficulties. Installation requires a three-inch diameter hole in the wall for the conduit to run through, but no ductwork. The compressor unit can be placed in an inconspicuous area outdoors, or can be placed on a flat commercial rooftop if used for supplemental cooling in a commercial application. In residential settings, the energy efficiency ratings are now comparable to those of window unit air conditioners.

Compared to many other add-on or retrofit air conditioning systems, split systems tend to be more aesthetically pleasing, and the air handlers can be suspended, mounted, or floor-standing. Many come with remote controls, which is handy if you mount your air handling unit high on a wall or suspend it from the ceiling.

Air conditioning options, fortunately, have multiplied in recent times, and portable air conditioning units are more practical than ever, eliminating the need for a window unit (which can be an easy point of access to burglars), and providing cooling where zoning or the age of a building won't allow the installation of the ductwork for a central system. Many of today's portable air conditioning units are far more aesthetically pleasing than window units and also come with nice touches like remote control devices.